Postponing China further, I'm going to post about Jordan and Israel. The title is a reference to the way some women in the muslim parts of this region dress (though that's not entirely fair as Jordan is probably the most liberal arab country and some young ladies don't even cover their hair).
I spent three nights in Amman, Jordan's capital that has gone from medium-sized town to rapidly-growing city of nearly 3 million in about 80 years. I took a daytrip to the surrounding area to see ancient ruins. First was a fortress that had been built by one of Saladin's relatives. It was perfectly positioned on a steep hill to give scenic views. After a buffet lunch, it was on to Jerash to see the Roman ruins. They have a pretty impressive collection there, and in the restored hippodrome there's a show featuring Roman soldiers, gladiators, and a chariot race.
My next day in Amman, I walked around, which unfortunately has neither old architecture, nor the types of impressive modern buildings that I got to see in Dubai. Most buildings are simple, 3-story utilitarian apartments, maybe with retail space at ground level. The city does have some Roman ruins however, the remains of the city of Philadelphia (look it up). The large amphitheater is most accesible. An old man who claimed to be a tour guide started to walk me around, pointing out various aspects of the place, but since he refused to slow down, and did not respond to a single question I asked, I broke off the tour after a few minutes. Instead, I met a student there who said she was studying to be an engineer. We had a decent conversation about Jordan, muslim culture and American views of it. She was very informative, like telling me that the headdress and concealing clothing are not a result of social pressure nor an edict from her parents, but rather her own free choice that her body is special, beautiful and will only be shared with people of her choosing. She proved to be a better guide than the original guy as well, showing me where to stand on the floor to perfectly utilize the theater's accoustics.
The next day I caught the bus to Wadi Musa (literally "Valley of Moses") which is the town that has grown up around the gates of Petra. Petra is now considered by many to be one of the Wonders of the World, and it didn't disappoint. The site consists of dozens and dozens of structures and buildings that were born into the rock cliffs by the Nabataeans more than 2500 years ago. Petra was the Nabs' capital, and grew rich by being a critical outpost on overland trading routes. It is known as the Rose Red City, and if you stick around for sunsets, you'll see why as the rocks flare up in the fading light. Just be mindful of the entrance fee. If you go for just one day, it's $70 ($126 if you're not staying in a room in town, but this doesn't get checked it seems). Additional consecutive days are $7.
From there it was on to Wadi Rum for a desert tour around the very areas that T.E. Lawrence rallied Arabs to revolt against Turkish rule. The desert gets both very hot and very cold at that time of year. But it's always great to just go and look at the rock formations of the desert; they grow differently because there isn't as much erosion from rain. Those of us on the overnight tour stayed in a bedouin camp that evening. A near full moon really lit things up. My time in Jordan wrapped up with a visit to Aqaba, Jordan's Red Sea port.
I then walked across the border to Eilat, Israel. Eilat is a resort town on the Red Sea. They have nice beaches, and I took a snorkel and fins with me to the water which had fish, coral, and jellyfish. I stayed for just one day before taking the bus to Jerusalem. I had been here before, during last year's birthright trip in January. I mostly set out looking for stuff that I hadn't seen before, though it was also fun to rekindle memories at places like Ben Yehuda St. The Old City of Jerusalem is where action is (and contains the land coveted by the 3 religions). I went in the Damascus gate to see the Muslim Quarter, which a bustle of activity. Markets line the main roads (I use roads loosely as most of the Old City's streets are unsuitable for anything besides pedestrians), and you must walk through hordes of people pretty much no matter which direction you go. The food markets are neat, while the stalls selling cheap toys or souvenirs are less inspiring. Muslim holy sites on the Temple Mount are open to non-muslim visitors only during the longer break in between dawn and midday prayers. I missed this so I passed into the Christian Quarter to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the place where (most) christians believed Christ was resurrected. The place is packed with tourists but is short on details to inform them, unless you go in a guided tour. Spins through the much less hectic Jewish and Armenian Quarters made it a complete day.
The next day I went to explore the West Bank. I wasn't thinking though, and went on a Friday, which tends to be the one day of the week that muslims take off. Thus there were almost no open businesses or attractions. I did get to see one very crowded market in Ramallah and the midday prayers, which spilled out onto the streets as there was not enough room within the mosque for all worshippers. I took a taxi to Taybeh so that I could visit the Middle East's only microbrewery. The place is operated by Christians, explaining both why it was open (muslims must refrain from alcohol) and on a Friday. I asked them how their business was, and the woman giving the tour said pretty good, but that they depend on peace. When there's trouble, they have difficulty getting their product out of the West Bank and people don't feel much like drinking anyway. Passing through Israeli checkpoints I felt confident because I knew that I had nothing to worry about, but it's unpleasant and I can see why the situation makes the Palestinians unhappy.
3 relaxing days in Israel's sin city, Tel Aviv hit the spot. I went to the beach during the day and out at night. Jordan and Israel both have similar food, at least on the budget end. Portions were big, something that would continue at my next destination, The large Greek isle of Crete.
Photos
Jordan
more Jordan
Israel
My next day in Amman, I walked around, which unfortunately has neither old architecture, nor the types of impressive modern buildings that I got to see in Dubai. Most buildings are simple, 3-story utilitarian apartments, maybe with retail space at ground level. The city does have some Roman ruins however, the remains of the city of Philadelphia (look it up). The large amphitheater is most accesible. An old man who claimed to be a tour guide started to walk me around, pointing out various aspects of the place, but since he refused to slow down, and did not respond to a single question I asked, I broke off the tour after a few minutes. Instead, I met a student there who said she was studying to be an engineer. We had a decent conversation about Jordan, muslim culture and American views of it. She was very informative, like telling me that the headdress and concealing clothing are not a result of social pressure nor an edict from her parents, but rather her own free choice that her body is special, beautiful and will only be shared with people of her choosing. She proved to be a better guide than the original guy as well, showing me where to stand on the floor to perfectly utilize the theater's accoustics.
The next day I caught the bus to Wadi Musa (literally "Valley of Moses") which is the town that has grown up around the gates of Petra. Petra is now considered by many to be one of the Wonders of the World, and it didn't disappoint. The site consists of dozens and dozens of structures and buildings that were born into the rock cliffs by the Nabataeans more than 2500 years ago. Petra was the Nabs' capital, and grew rich by being a critical outpost on overland trading routes. It is known as the Rose Red City, and if you stick around for sunsets, you'll see why as the rocks flare up in the fading light. Just be mindful of the entrance fee. If you go for just one day, it's $70 ($126 if you're not staying in a room in town, but this doesn't get checked it seems). Additional consecutive days are $7.
From there it was on to Wadi Rum for a desert tour around the very areas that T.E. Lawrence rallied Arabs to revolt against Turkish rule. The desert gets both very hot and very cold at that time of year. But it's always great to just go and look at the rock formations of the desert; they grow differently because there isn't as much erosion from rain. Those of us on the overnight tour stayed in a bedouin camp that evening. A near full moon really lit things up. My time in Jordan wrapped up with a visit to Aqaba, Jordan's Red Sea port.
I then walked across the border to Eilat, Israel. Eilat is a resort town on the Red Sea. They have nice beaches, and I took a snorkel and fins with me to the water which had fish, coral, and jellyfish. I stayed for just one day before taking the bus to Jerusalem. I had been here before, during last year's birthright trip in January. I mostly set out looking for stuff that I hadn't seen before, though it was also fun to rekindle memories at places like Ben Yehuda St. The Old City of Jerusalem is where action is (and contains the land coveted by the 3 religions). I went in the Damascus gate to see the Muslim Quarter, which a bustle of activity. Markets line the main roads (I use roads loosely as most of the Old City's streets are unsuitable for anything besides pedestrians), and you must walk through hordes of people pretty much no matter which direction you go. The food markets are neat, while the stalls selling cheap toys or souvenirs are less inspiring. Muslim holy sites on the Temple Mount are open to non-muslim visitors only during the longer break in between dawn and midday prayers. I missed this so I passed into the Christian Quarter to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the place where (most) christians believed Christ was resurrected. The place is packed with tourists but is short on details to inform them, unless you go in a guided tour. Spins through the much less hectic Jewish and Armenian Quarters made it a complete day.
The next day I went to explore the West Bank. I wasn't thinking though, and went on a Friday, which tends to be the one day of the week that muslims take off. Thus there were almost no open businesses or attractions. I did get to see one very crowded market in Ramallah and the midday prayers, which spilled out onto the streets as there was not enough room within the mosque for all worshippers. I took a taxi to Taybeh so that I could visit the Middle East's only microbrewery. The place is operated by Christians, explaining both why it was open (muslims must refrain from alcohol) and on a Friday. I asked them how their business was, and the woman giving the tour said pretty good, but that they depend on peace. When there's trouble, they have difficulty getting their product out of the West Bank and people don't feel much like drinking anyway. Passing through Israeli checkpoints I felt confident because I knew that I had nothing to worry about, but it's unpleasant and I can see why the situation makes the Palestinians unhappy.
3 relaxing days in Israel's sin city, Tel Aviv hit the spot. I went to the beach during the day and out at night. Jordan and Israel both have similar food, at least on the budget end. Portions were big, something that would continue at my next destination, The large Greek isle of Crete.
Photos
Jordan
more Jordan
Israel
